Why This Watch Matters

This IWC dress watch features an archetypal, automatic movement and a timeless aesthetic. 

The Full Story

This IWC is about as classic as it gets when it comes to vintage dress watches. It shares a slight resemblance with the Patek Philippe Calatrava, another quintessential dress watch design.

With a 35mm case, this watch was on the larger side for a 1950s dress watch, but it's a perfect size for contemporary wear. The narrow bezel allows the watch to wear larger than its actual measurement, allowing the dial to be the center of attention. The off-white dial has aged beautifully, with just the right amount of patina, to a soft eggshell color. The scripted IWC logo adds to the vintage vibe.

Compared to the Caliber 89, IWC's other well-known vintage dress watch, this present example is fitted with the brand's self-winding caliber 852. This automatic movement was introduced in 1952, utilizing the brand's proprietary Pellaton winding system. This new self-winding movement was considered revolutionary at the time, since it allowed energy to be transferred from the bi-directional rotor to the mainspring, a considerably more efficient solution compared to the other self-winding movements of the time. As a result of this design, the movement would experience less stress and wear over time. Nearly 70 years since its creation, variations of the Pellaton self-winding system are still used today in some modern IWC creations.

Here we paired it with a HODINKEE Natural Beige Calfskin Watch Strap to keep the overall look in a similar neutral palette, allowing the gorgeous soft patina on the dial to shine through.

The Fine Print

Maker: IWC 
Model: Automatic 
Reference: N/A
Year: 1950s  
Case No: 1435691; Movement No: 1398581
Material: Stainless steel / staybrite steel 
Dimensions: 35mm diameter; 12mm thickness
Crystal: Plexiglass 
Lume: No
Caliber: IWC automatic caliber 852 with Pellaton winding system 
Bracelet/Strap:
Lug Width: 18mm 
Box/Papers: No 

What we Love and What You Should Know

This watch is overall in very good condition. The case shows some surface scratches from age and wear, but the overall case integrity remains strong and the edges are still crisp. The dial has aged evenly with patina into a soft eggshell tone. There are some minor marks on the dial, a common occurrence that is especially visible on lighter colored dials like this watch. The black, printed letter "I" in "International" has partially worn off over time. The hour makers and the handset show some patina throughout.